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Fry one-half pound of meat, finely diced, with onion and curry powder. Add a little water from time to time, so that the meat will be tender and the onions soft. Then add two teacupfuls of water. As soon as water boils add a cupful of sliced radishes, potatoes, carrots, or any vegetables that will not mash. Cook slowly together until vegetables are soft. In India this curry is always acidulated, but that is not necessary. It is a good plan, however, to always serve sliced lemon with all curries, as some prefer them sour.


From The Khaki Kook Book by Mary Kennedy Core (1917)
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Take small tomatoes, scald and peel them, then cut a slice from the stem end. Place them, the cut side down, on slices of buttered[Pg 42] bread, put them in a buttered baking tin, season with salt and pepper, bake ½ an hour. Serve with cold roast beef.


From: 365 Luncheon Dishes: A Luncheon Dish for Every Day in the Year by Anonymous (1902 USA)
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  • ¾ cup sweet butter
  • grated peel of one lemon
  • 7 egg yolks
  • 1 cup sugar
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1¼ pounds flour
Cream butter, add sugar, lemon peel and soda. Mix well, add yolks and beat again. Add flour gradually, beating dough constantly until well blended. Chill.


FIlling

Filling )

From: Recipes from American National by American National Insurance Company
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This is a very delicious dish, and is often served as an entrée at first-class dinners.

They are made from what are known as cup mushrooms. It is best to pick mushrooms, as far as possible, the same size, the cup being about two inches in diameter. Peel the mushrooms very carefully, without breaking them, cut out the stalks close down with a spoon, scoop out the inside of the cup, so as to make it hollow. Now peel the stalks and chop them up with all the scooped part of the mushroom, with, supposing we are making ten cups, a piece of onion as big as the top of the thumb down to the first joint.To this add a brimming teaspoonful of chopped parsley, or even a little more, a saltspoonful of dried thyme, or half this quantity of fresh thyme. Fry all this in a frying-pan, in a little butter. The aroma is delicious.

Then add sufficient dried bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a wire sieve to make the whole into a moist paste, fill each of the cups with this mixture so that the top is as convex as the cup of the mushroom, having first seasoned the mixture with a little pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Shake some fine bread-raspings over the top so as to make them of a nice golden-brown colour, pour a little drop of oil into a baking-tin, place the mushrooms in it, and bake them gently in an oven till the cup part of the mushroom becomes soft and tender, but take care they do not cook till they break. Now take them out carefully with an egg-slice, and place them on a dish—a silver dish is best for the purpose-and place some nice, crisp, fried parsley round the edge.


From Cassell's Vegetarian Cookery: A Manual of Cheap and Wholesome Diet by A. G. Payne (1891 London, UK)
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Boiling the fish

Thudichum recommends sea water, whenever it is available, for boiling fish; lacking this, hot water, salted (an ounce of salt to a quart of water), and acidulated pleasantly with lemon juice or vinegar, is the proper medium of cooking. The addition of a slice or two of onion and carrot, a sprig of parsley, a stalk of celery, with aromatic herbs or spices, provided they be not used so freely as to overpower the delicate savor of the fish, is thought to improve the dish.

Recipe:

Pour a little chicken aspic into a pickle or other dish of suitable shape and size for a single fish; when nearly set, lay a trout, prepared as above, upon the aspic, add a few spoonfuls of aspic, let it harden so that the fish may become fixed in place, then add aspic to cover. Slices of cucumber pickles, capers, or other ornaments, may be used. When the aspic is thoroughly set and chilled, remove from the mould and serve on two lettuce leaves, with any dressing desired.


From Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties by Janet McKenzie Hill (1909 Boston)
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Chop sufficient cold chicken to make a half pint, add the juice of half a lemon, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter or olive oil, twelve walnuts chopped very fine, a half teaspoonful of paprika and a half teaspoonful of salt. Put this mixture between thin slices of buttered bread, trim the crusts and cut into fingers.


From Sandwiches by S. T. Rorer (1894 US)

According to wikipedia, it shares the same name as a Bulgarian sandwich dish, which is an open-faced baked sandwiches prepared with minced meat. They don't seem to be related in origin. though.
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Take sheep's brains. Soak in lukewarm water and blanch. Stew with thin slices of bacon, a little white wine, parsley, shallots, cloves, small onions, salt and pepper. When done arrange the brains on a dish, with the onion's around; reduce the sauce and serve. Calves' brains may be dressed in the same way.

Rufus Estes was born in Tennessee, in 1857 as a slave. From 1883-1897, he was one of the now legendary Private Car Attendants of the Pullman Company, which he talked about in the introduction to the cookbook. He had served President Cleveland; President Harrison, and Princess Eulalie of Spain among others, and told us that the recipe's worth "has been demonstrated, not experimentally, but by actual tests, day by day and month by month, under dissimilar, and, in many instances, not too favorable conditions."

From Good Things to Eat, as Suggested by Rufus by Rufus Estes (1911 US)

Further Reading:

Wondering What’s Good to Eat? Rufus Estes Has Some Answers!
: An interesting essay about how cookbook writers like Rufus Estes use his biography to add credence to their books.

Introductory essay in Feeding America: the Historic American Cookbook Project:

More context for the significance of Rufus Oates and the cookbook in American cooking history and African American contribution to American cuisine



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’Tis no one thing; it is not fruit, nor root,
Nor poorly limited with head or foot.
Donne.



Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, take out the crumb, fry them brown and crisp with clarified butter, then fry some breadcrumbs; stew the requisite quantity of oysters, bearded and cut in two, in their liquor, with a little white wine, some gravy, and seasoned with grated lemon-peel, powdered mace, pepper and salt; add a bit of butter, fill the rolls with oysters, and serve them with the fried breadcrumbs in a dish.


~ From A Poetical Cook-Book by Maria J. Moss (1864, Pennsylvania, US.)

When I googled oyster loaves, I found claims of various origins for this dish. The New Orlean claims to this dish was dated in mid-1800s according to this article: "Was the oyster loaf invented in (gasp!) San Francisco?" Perhaps it has travelled east, or the dish came out independently.
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  •       1 quart of cream
  •    1/4 pound of almond macaroons
  •      4 kisses
  •    1/2 pound of sugar
  •      1 slice of stale sponge cake or
  •      2 stale lady fingers
  •      1 teaspoonful of caramel
  •      1 teaspoonful of vanilla
  •       ( If you use it), 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry
Pound the macaroons, kisses, lady fingers or sponge cake, and put them through a colander. Put half the cream and all the sugar over the fire in a double boiler; when the sugar is dissolved, stand the mixture aside to cool; when cold, add the remaining cream, the caramel, sherry and vanilla. Turn the mixture into the freezer, and, when frozen, add the pounded cakes; stir the mixture until it is perfectly smooth and well mixed, and repack. Bisque ice cream is better for a three hour stand.

This quantity will serve six persons.


From Ice Creams, Water Ices, Frozen Puddings Together with Refreshments for all Social Affairs by S. T. Rorer (1913 US)
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Take Tin Ice-Pots, fill them with any Sort of Cream you like, either plain or sweeten’d, or Fruit in it; shut your Pots very close; to six Pots you must allow eighteen or twenty Pound of Ice, breaking the Ice very small; there will be some great Pieces, which lay at the Bottom and Top: You must have a Pail, and lay some Straw at the Bottom; then lay in your Ice, and put in amongst it a Pound of Bay-Salt; set in your Pots of Cream, and 93 lay Ice and Salt between every Pot, that they may not touch; but the Ice must lie round them on every Side; lay a good deal of Ice on the Top, cover the Pail with Straw, set it in a Cellar where no Sun or Light comes, it will be froze in four Hours, but it may stand longer; than take it out just as you use it; hold it in your Hand and it will slip out. When you wou’d freeze any Sort of Fruit, either Cherries, Rasberries, Currants, or Strawberries, fill your Tin-Pots with the Fruit, but as hollow as you can; put to them Lemmonade, made with Spring-Water and Lemmon-Juice sweeten’d; put enough in the Pots to make the Fruit hang together, and put them in Ice as you do Cream.


From Mrs. Mary Eales's receipts by Mary Eales (1733 UK)

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To make a very Good Great Oxford-shire Cake

Take a peck of flower by weight, and dry it a little, & a pound and a halfe of Sugar, one ounce of Cinamon, half an ounce of Nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of Mace and Cloves, a good spoonfull of Salt, beat your Salt and Spice very fine, and searce it, and mix it with your flower and Sugar; then take three pound of butter and work it in the flower, it will take three hours working; then take a quart of Ale-yeast, two quarts of Cream, half a pint of Sack, six grains of Amber-greece dissolved in it, halfe a pint of Rosewater, sixteen Eggs, eight of the Whites, mix these with the flower, and knead them well together, then let it lie warm by your fire till your Oven be hot, which must be little hotter then for manchet; when you make it ready for your Oven, put to your Cake six pound of Currans, two pound of Raisins, of the Sun stoned and minced, so make up your Cake, and set it in your oven stopped close; it wil take three houres a baking; when baked, take it out and frost it over with the white of an Egge and Rosewater, well beat together, and strew fine Sugar upon it, and then set it again into the Oven, that it may Ice.


From The Compleat Cook by W. M. (1658)
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Quarter, pare, core, and stew your Pippins in a Pipkin, upon very hot embers, close covered, a whole day, for they must stew softly, then put to them some whole Cinamon, six Cloves, and sugar enough to make them sweet, and some Rose-water, and when they are stewed enough, take them off the fire, and take all the Spice from them, and break them small like Marmalade, having your Coffins ready made, not above an inch deep, fill them with it, and lay on a very thin cover of puffe paste, close and fit, so bake them, serve them in cold, but you must take heed you doe not over-bake them.


From A Book of Fruits and Flowers by Anonymous (1653 UK)

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  1. Put one quart of milk in the double-boiler, and place on the fire. Sprinkle into it one level tablespoonful of sea-moss farina. Cover, and cook until the mixture looks white, stirring frequently. It will take about twenty minutes.
  2. While the milk and farina are cooking, shave two ounces of Walter Baker & Co.'s Premium No. 1 Chocolate, and put it into a small pan with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two of boiling water. Stir over a hot fire until smooth and glossy, then stir into the cooked mixture.
  3. Add a saltspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of vanilla. Strain, and turn into a mould that has been rinsed in cold water.
  4. Set the mould in a cold place, and do not disturb it until the blanc-mange is cold and firm. Serve with sugar and cream.
From Chocolate and Cocoa Recipes and Home Made Candy Recipes by Maria Parloa and Janet McKenzie Hill (1780), published by Walter Baker & Co., Ltd.

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Exceedingly nice cheese-cakes can be made from remains of cold potatoes, and can be made very cheap by increasing the quantity of potatoes used.

Take a quarter of a pound of butter, four eggs, two fresh lemons, and half a pound of lump sugar.First of all rub off all the outsides of two lemons on to the sugar; oil the butter in a tin in the oven and melt the sugar in it; squeeze the juice of the two lemons, and take care that the sugar is thoroughly dissolved before you begin to mix all the ingredients together. Now beat up the eggs very thoroughly and mix the whole in a basin. This now forms a very rich mixture indeed, a good-sized teaspoonful of which would be sufficient for the interior of an ordinary-sized cheese-cake, but a far better plan is to make a large cheese-cake, or rather cheese-cake pudding, in a pie-dish by adding cold boiled potatoes.

The plainness or richness of the pudding depends entirely upon the amount of potatoes added. The pie-dish can be lined with a little puff paste round the edge, if preferred, or the pudding can be sent to table plain. It should be baked in the oven till the top is nicely browned. It can be served either hot or cold, but, in our opinion, is nicer cold. If the lemons are very fresh and green—if the pudding is sent to table hot—you will often detect the smell of turpentine. If a large quantity of potatoes is added more sugar will be required.

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  1. Put 1 oz. butter in saucepan and shred into it very finely a large Spanish onion or an equal quantity white of small onions or leeks. Cover, and allow to sweat over gentle heat for 10 minutes. Some finely shred white celery along with the onions is a welcome addition, but is not indispensable.
  2. Pick and wash well 1/4 lb. yellow lentils and bring to boil in water to cover. Do the same with 3 ozs. rice. The lentils and rice may be boiled together, but are nicer done separately.
  3. Add to onion, &c., in saucepan, along with seasoning to taste of curry powder, &c. Some tomato pulp or chutney is very good. Mix lightly so as not to make it pasty.
  4. Remove from fire, add a beaten egg, and press into a plain buttered mould. Tie down with buttered paper and steam for one hour.
  5. Turn out and serve with tomato sauce. It may also be garnished with slices of hard-boiled egg, beetroot, fried tomatoes, &c.
~ From Reform Cookery Book (4th edition) by Mrs. Mill (1909 UK)
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Take a hundred and fifty fine large oysters, and pick off carefully the bits of shell that may be sticking to them. Lay the oysters in a deep dish, and then strain the liquor over them. Put them into an iron skillet that is lined with porcelain, and add salt to your taste. Without salt they will not be firm enough. Set the skillet on hot coals, and allow the oysters to simmer till they are heated all through, but not till they boil. Then take out the oysters and put them into a stone jar, leaving the liquor in the skillet. Add to it a pint of clear strong vinegar, a large tea-spoonful of blades of mace, three dozen whole cloves, and three dozen whole pepper corns. Let it come to a boil, and when the oysters are quite cold in the jar, pour the liquor oh them.

They are fit for use immediately, but are better the next day. In cold weather they will keep a week.

If you intend sending them a considerable distance you must allow the oysters to boil, and double the proportions of the pickle and spice.


From: Directions for Cookery, in its Various Branches 3rd ed. by Eliza Leslie (1840 US)
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Boil together one cupful of granulated sugar, one cupful of coffee A sugar, one-half cupful of Irish potato—treated as before—one tablespoonful of butter, one cupful of milk, caramel coloring. Stir continually until the mass forms a soft ball in cold water. Then pour it onto a well oiled marble between candy bars.


From: Candy-Making Revolutionized: Confectionery from Vegetables by Mary Elizabeth Hall (1912 US)
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Ingredients: Lamb's sweetbread, butter, onions, stock, Chablis, salt, lemon, herbs, cocks' combs, fowls' livers.

Cut up equal quantities of lamb's sweetbreads, cocks' combs, fowls' livers in pieces about the size of a filbert, flour and fry them slightly in butter and a small bit of onion, add half a glass of Chablis, a cup of good stock, and a bunch of herbs. Reduce the sauce, and thicken it with a tablespoonful of butter and flour fried together. Make a border of Risotto all'Italiana (No. 190), and put the sweetbread, &c., together with the sauce in the centre.


From "The Cook's Decameron" by Mrs. W. G. Waters (1901)

"The Cook's Decameron" began with an introductory fiction that the fictional Marchesa di Sant Andrea set up a cooking school for her noble friends after their chef's resignation. Then the form reverts to a conventional cookbook with over 200 Italian recipes.


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1 head celery, 4 large tomatoes, 4 qts. water, 4 large English onions, 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley.

This soup figures often in the diet sheet of the Physical Regenerationists for gouty and rheumatic patients, but in addition to being a valuable medicine on account of its salts, it is the most delicious clear soup that I know of. To make: chop the ingredients to dice, cover closely, and simmer until the quantity of liquid is reduced to one half


From The Healthy Life Cook Book, 2d ed. by Florence Daniel (1915 London, UK)
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Milk, buttermilk, or even skim-milk, will serve for this purpose.

To every pint of milk, mix a piled-up table-spoonful of flour, and stir the mixture while boiling on the fire for ten minutes; season with a little salt, and eat it with bread or a boiled potato.

This kind of food is well adapted for the breakfast of women and children, and is far preferable to a sloppy mess of tea, which comes to more money.


From A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes by Charles Elmé Francatelli (1852 London)

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